Maybe DFW read Joan of Arc by Mark Twain. This is from the endpapaer of one of his notebooks:
Monday, October 15, 2012
"Against Joie de Vivre" by Philip Lapote, Ploughshares, 1986
"I am saved from such culinary paganism by the fact that food is largely an indifferent matter to me. I rarely think much about what I am putting in my mouth. Though my savage, illiterate palate has inevitably been educated to some degree by the many meals I have shared with people who care enormously about such things, I resist going any further. I am superstitious that the day I send back a dish at a restaurant, or make a complicated journey to somewhere just for a meal, that day I will have sacrificed my freedom and traded in my soul for a lesser god."